In our last episode, we covered the basic setup of a Mikrotik 750G.

Unlike most consumer level routers that use a web browser for configuration, Mikrotik uses a proprietary program.
Step 1: Download (NOTE: This URL won’t work if you’ve already changed your IP. But if you’ve changed your IP, you’ve probably already figured out you need Winbox….)

Step 2:

Click that and select your router.

Step 3:

You should see this. If you’ve never setup a Mikrotik before, you should leave the default configuration in so you retain a fully functional router.
Hmm. Apparently I didn’t think this post through really well.
I have no idea what the 2 people that actually visit this site actually have for router requirements, so I have no idea how to proceed from here.
I guess the only thing I can say from here on out is explore.
Mikrotiks can do some really powerful things and have LOTS of configuration options.

EDIT: In response to comments, I’ll be updating this post to cover a few new things. Anything that would be long and drawn out I’ll make into a new post for the next episode.

IPs – Changing the IP is surprisingly complicated compared to a consumer router. Since you can use more than one range, it’s not a single text box you change in one place, but rather 6 different places you have to tweak in new settings. I think this will have to wait for another show.

Port speeds – I’ll snap some screenshots and fix this at a later date.

Firewall/Port Forwarding – Same deal. I’ll snap some screenshots and update this.

Wireless AP – Some models do have mini PCI slots for wireless radios (and MiniPCI-E for 3G radios) but the 750G does not.
My recommendation in this situation is to pick up an assembled Wireless AP. The DH Stamp of Approval list includes Trendnet TEW-637AP for the ultra budget conscious and the EnGenius ECB9500 for those with a few more bucks to spend. If all you need is wireless, the Trendnet will do fine. If you want a few cool features like VLANs bound to SSID, go with the EnGenius. Besides… quit being a cheap ass and pay the $90 compared to $45.
I will be covering 3G at a later date (in fact… that article predates this article, I just haven’t finished it yet since it’s quite long)
I’ve also experimented with Wireless, but unless you have a specific need for a MiniPCI radio inside the Mikrotik, I would recommend buying a separate AP.

WebUI: Apparently I forgot to flash the latest firmware when I picked up my unit. v5 has a built-in WebUI that basically mirrors Winbox. Just head to http://[Router IP]. There you can use the “Webfig” and check out some graphs.

Subnetting: I should cover subnetting one of these days. And I should submit that article to a few choice places that decide it’s a good idea to use routable IPs in a private range. This article may have to wait a bit. I will explain out the local ranges when I cover IPs, but the full subnetting article is probably better read on Wikipedia.

  10 Responses to “Mikrotik: Configuration Basics”

  1. I recently got the same router and you are correct, it does a heck of a lot. Perhaps covering some of the “common” configuration settings would be useful for new users after they have the default settings going. Something like:

    – Basic IP settings
    – Changing port settings (speed, switch or not, etc.)
    – Firewall rules
    – Port forwarding

    I think that would do it for most users that typically get consumer routers.

  2. Does mikrotik have an attachable wireless AP? That would be a good thing to cover.

    • The new 751U will have a 1000mW (yes, you read that right) wireless card onboard. This unit will basically eliminate the need to pick components to assemble yourself. Until then, I still recommend an external AP.
      Honestly… I always recommend an external AP since my routers are never located near where I need an AP. In the case of a single AP, it’s never central.
      In the case of multiple, I may as well have identical APs to ease configuration.

      • There’s also a 751G that’s coming in Q3. What’s the different between that and the 751U? I’m guessing the G stands for gigabit switch?

        • I’m not exactly sure what the difference is. I only heard about the 751 series recently and only the basic specs. I didn’t see anything regarding specific features outside (basically) a 750G with wireless taped on.
          I would hope that both models have GBit.

  3. actually there are 3 people visiting ur site, I’ve read just about everything on your blog but haven’t replied til now :)
    Is there some pluggin or addon or anything that can get it a webUI?

    lastly I wanna make a request, could you write a short newbie guide to get away from class C address, explaining newb stuff like why people use 192.168, 127, 10, instead of random numbers to our liking, and everything we need to consider before switching to class A? Explain subnetting slowly, even For Dummies books hurt my head with binary and hex lol

  4. Careful, on mine (750G) by default forwarding is also working from the wan port to somewhere else on the wan port.

    Someone on the internet could use your IP as a gatewaly to watch kitty porn and be logged with your IP.

    • Do you have a specific example?
      As far as I can tell srcnat only works from internal -> external.
      Even the wiki matches the default rules.

      Unless you’re talking about something else entirely, in which case I (and I would imagine everyone else with a 750G) would appreciate an example.

  5. DH, would you mind giving a tutorial on some basic port forwarding, from WAN to a web server, say? I just picked up the wireless 751 and it’s a bit dauting at first.

    • /ip firewall nat add chain=dstnat dst-port=1234 action=dst-nat protocol=tcp to-address=192.168.1.1 to-port=1234

      You could do it via GUI, but as with most things it’s easier via CLI.

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